Compare France & Switzerland Haute Route Hiking by Boundless Journeys

Day 1: Arrival in Chamonix; orientation and welcome dinner

Accommodation: Oustalet, Chamonix, France

We meet at our mountain hotel in Chamonix, France, a pretty village nestled under the flanks of snow-covered Mont Blanc (15,770’), the highest mountain in western Europe. Chamonix is the “mountaineering capital” of Europe, and has been a climbing and skiing center for over 100 years. This wonderful town has a charming atmosphere and is well-preserved with cobbled streets full of lively sidewalk cafés. We meet our guides this evening for an orientation at our hotel, followed by a welcome dinner at a favorite restaurant in town, brimming with relics of mountaineering history.

Day 2: La Balme to Col de la Forclaz

Accommodation: du Barrage Grande Dixence, Barrage de la Grande Dixence, Switzerland

Hike – moderate, 5-6 hours with approximately 2,194’ elevation loss

This morning we set out for a short ride to the small ski village of Le Tour, at the head of the Chamonix valley. Here we ride a gondola and chair lift up La Balme (7,095’). From the top, we take in the spectacular views of Mont Blanc and the Aiguille Verte, before setting off through high pastureland leading us to Col de Balme (7,230’). Our trail takes us over the pass and the French-Swiss border, where mesmerizing views of the impressive Trient glacier greet us. Keeping our eyes peeled for wildlife - the ubiquitous shaggy, dun-colored chamois, and if we are lucky, the impressive ibex - we skirt the flanks of the mountains, occasionally crossing scree. As we round a bend and ascend a rocky path, the Les Grands glacier comes into view. A tidy stone mountain hut overlooking the glacier is an ideal spot for a picnic today.

Following our break, we descend along a narrow, man-made cow path following a natural cleft in a steep rock face. The work that went into its construction is considerable, all to allow herds safe access to their high summer grazing land. As we descend further, we enter a world of larch and pine forests, ending with an easy final stretch along a “bisse." These man-made waterways provide irrigation to the valleys below, and this one leads us to La Forclaz (5,036’). Here we are met by our private vehicle and transferred (approximately 1 hour, 15 minutes) to our hotel for the night, tucked at the base of the imposing Barrage de la Grande Dixence, or Grand Dixance Dam. For those interested in grand feats of engineering, a late afternoon visit to the interpretive center at the dam offers a fascinating diversion.

Day 3: Lac des Dix to Arolla

Accommodation: les Melezes, Les Haudères, Switzerland

Hike – strenuous, 7 hours with approximately 2,681' elevation gain and 3,039’ elevation loss.

This morning after breakfast we depart on foot from our hotel, ascending a trail along the side of the dam for about 1/2 hour to reach the top. Along the way we stop to rest at a small chapel dating from the 1930s, built by the workers who constructed the original Barrage du Dixence, now submerged beneath the waters of the much grander dam that stands today. As we clear the top of the dam, our hike levels out and meanders through hand-hewn tunnels and along a flat, wide track that follows the western shore of Lac des Dix (7,887’). For the next three miles, we will enjoy taking in our bucolic surroundings of high-alpine meadows, streams, and wildflowers marked by glaciated peaks in the distance. Marmots love this shore and their furry shapes can often be seen darting among the rocks, paired with their sharp alarm call that sounds much like a hawk. After about two hours of easy walking, the trail diverges from Lac des Dix.

Our ascent up the Pas du Chat is a steep 20 minute climb, before easing to a more moderate ascent through scree and glacial moraine. The impressive ridgeline of Mont Blanc de Cheilon comes into view, with the sprawling Cheilon glacier fanning out at its base, accompanied by ethereal lakes - a perfect place to capture an image of the mountain's reflection on the water's surface. Soon, we begin our climb up the Col de Reidmatten (9,633’). After a short but quite steep and rocky ascent, we enter through the narrow notch marking this pass, and are rewarded with a stupendous vista of snowcapped peaks, including our first view of the Matterhorn, still far enough away to seem insignificant among the other peaks.

Following a well-deserved break taking in this new vantage point, we descend through pastures and forests to Arolla (6,594’), with tantalizing views of Mount Collon and the lengthy Tsijiore Nouve glacier. Set amidst larch and arolla forests, the hamlet of Arolla is one of the smallest villages along the Haute Route. From here, our vehicle is waiting to transfer us to Les Haudères (4,763’), a quaint village brimming with history, comprised of typical Valaisian chalets and hay barns, and our home for the evening. If you have the energy, you may stroll the quiet streets. If not, c'est bon, simply find a local pub and enjoy a cup of tea or a well-earned beer before dinner at our inn.

Day 4: Villa to Lac Moiry

Accommodation: Europe, Zinal, Switzerland

Hike – moderate to strenuous, approximately 5-6 hours with 3,947’ elevation gain and 2,189’ loss.

This morning a short transfer brings us on a switchback farm road above the valley, where we set out on our hike from the tiny hamlet of Villa (5,623’). We ascend through bucolic pastureland towards the Col de Torrent (9,570’). As the Col grows nearer, the pitch steepens a bit and switches back and forth on a well-formed trail across scree for the final 20 minutes to the pass. This lovely plateau is a great spot take in the nearly 360-degree views spanning from the now-distant French border, north to the Bernese Alps, and down into the Rhône Valley far below. Looking east, toward Zermatt, we see the jade-green Lac de Moiry below.

Heading down from Col de Torrent into rolling high pastureland, we are enchanted by the feeling of being truly immersed in the Alps. The panorama of rising peaks and glaciers over the spectacular lakes provides yet another picturesque setting for an alpine picnic, and we happily linger over our baguettes, cheeses of the region, local meats, and fruit. Of course, no proper Haute Route picnic would be complete without a bit of Swiss chocolate!

After lunch, we continue to Lac de Moiry, crossing the dam at its base. From here, we'll transfer to Zinal for our overnight (about 40 minutes), perhaps stopping en route to briefly explore the historic center of nearby Grimentz, with its quaint cobbled streets, creperie, and small craft shop.

Day 5: Zinal to Saint-Luc

Accommodation: Bella Tola, Saint-Luc, Switzerland

Hike – moderate, 4-5 hours with approximately 2,510’ elevation gain.

This morning we enjoy some leisure time, before departing on foot from town for our hike. Today begins with an ascent through the forests surrounding Zinal, eventually bringing us to a beautiful ridgeline trail leading to Saint-Luc. We are rewarded with panoramic views of the Zinalrothorn, the Matterhorn’s summit looming high, and the Dent Blanche. There is ample time to photograph these impressive peaks with a shorter hike today, a welcome respite as we enter the final stages of our Haute Route traverse. With some gentle rising and falling, we make our way to a viewpoint above town of Saint-Luc, at the well known (and well worn!) Hotel Weisshorn. This is a lovely place to stop for refreshments overlooking the valley, but for the evening, we'll descend either on foot or by funicular to the town of Saint-Luc, where we spend the night enjoying more comfortable accommodations in a picturesque mountain setting.

Day 6: Saint-Luc to Gruben

Accommodation: Schwarzhorn, Gruben, Switzerland

Hike – moderate, 4-5 hours with 1,540’ elevation gain and 3,194’ elevation loss.

Today we return to yesterday's trail by funicular, and hike through high, stony pastureland toward the Meidpass (9,207’). As we navigate a scree slope to the stony saddle, we leave the French-speaking part of Switzerland and enter into the German-speaking part, distinctly different both linguistically and culturally. From the top, we glimpse back to Mont Blanc, where we set out several days ago, now seeming a world away.

From Meidpass, we wind our way down (somewhat steeply at first) through high meadows, alpine lakes, and pine forests to the tiny village of Gruben (6,013’) and our historic hotel. We again enjoy an afternoon of relaxation, relishing the peaceful nature of this isolated farming settlement.

Day 7 : Gruben to St. Niklaus; transfer to Zermatt

Accommodation: Matterhornblick, Zermatt, Switzerland

Hike – moderate to strenuous, 7 hours with 3,481’ elevation gain and 4,161’ loss.

Our penultimate day of hiking is considered to be some of the most breathtaking scenery encountered along the Haute Route, and we undoubtedly will be mesmerized by the tremendous beauty one more time. We begin with a gradual, roughly three hour climb over a scree slope, to the Augstbord Pass (9,494’), which was used during the Middle Ages as a trading route linking the Rhône Valley and Italy. Crossing this final pass of the hiker’s route from Chamonix to Zermatt is a highlight that leaves us feeling overwhelmed with a sense of accomplishment. There are few other passes in all of Switzerland that rival the views from atop Augstbord Pass.

On our descent we gain glimpses of Zermatt in the distance, while turning back to revel in the mountain wilderness we hiked through over the past week. Coming across the tiny hamlet of Jungen reminds us of the rugged nature of eking out an existence in this alpine landscape, and we are left with a bittersweet feeling as the inn-to-inn portion of our Haute Route hiking tour comes to an end.

From Jungen we make our way to St. Niklaus where we transfer to Zermatt. This evening may enjoy dinner at a one of the many restaurants in town.

Day 8: Exploring Zermatt

Accommodation: Matterhornblick, Zermatt, Switzerland

Hike – easy to moderate, approximately 4 hours with variable elevation gain and loss.

Today we relish having the most challenging hikes of our trip behind us. The hiking options from Zermatt are many, and our guide will have one in mind that will suit the group and the weather conditions. Perhaps we will use the extensive lift system to access higher ground and do a hike in the vicinity of Fluealp. From here we enjoy spectacular views above the mountains forming the northern border of Italy, including Monta Rosa, and across the Zermatt valley to the unforgettable Matterhorn.

For those who prefer, one can easily while away a very pleasant day exploring the bustling streets of Zermatt. Shops ranging from crafty to couture line the traffic-free streets, sunny café patios beckon, and the mountaineering museum in the center of town provides an interesting background on past feats.

Later this afternoon, we gather to celebrate our accomplishments with a farewell dinner in town.

Day 9: Departure from Zermatt

Our trip ends after breakfast, and you are free to continue your exploration of Zermatt, or depart for your next destination.