Compare Nepal: Kalapatar and Everest Base Camp by Myths and Mountains

Day 1: Arrive Kathmandu

Meals: Dinner

Accommodation: Kathmandu Guest House, Hotel Yak And Yeti Or Dwarikas

On arrival in Kathmandu, our representatives holding a Myths and Mountains sign will meet you. They will help you transfer to the Tibet Hotel. The afternoon is free to explore the city on your own. At night, there will be a welcome dinner and trip orientation.

Day 2: Swambunath, Pashupatinath, Bodhanath

Meals: Breakfast

Accommodation: Kathmandu Guest House, Hotel Yak And Yeti Or Dwarikas

You will rise early for sunrise at Swayambunath, or the Monkey Temple. After a climb up the 365 steps (if you can’t climb, you shouldn’t go trekking!), you will reach this Buddhist temple with beautiful views of the Kathmandu Valley. After your visit to this famous shrine, you will walk down the street to the Vajra Hotel for breakfast. Following breakfast, you will explore the Hindu world of Pashupatinath, and then cross the Tibet road into the Buddhist realm surrounding the stupa of Bodhanath. Late in the afternoon, you will return to your hotel for the night.

Day 3: Fly Lukla. Walk To Phakding – 9,300 Feet

Meals: Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner

Accommodation: Local Lodge

Today you will catch an early morning flight to Lukla. The airport here was built by Sir Edmond Hillary to link the upper Khumbu region with the capital, Kathmandu. An unexpected consequence of the airport was the opening of the Khumbu region for trekkers who want to explore the Everest region of Nepal. After a cup of tea, you will start slowly walking up the hill to Phakding. We do not have a long walk today, allowing for a leisurely acclimatization to the 9000’ altitude of the area. On your way, you get your first glimpses of some of the mountains you will get to know well over the next three weeks – Kanteiga, the horse-­‐‑saddle-­‐‑mountain, and Kusum Kangruru.

Day 4: Trek Phakding To Namche – 6 Hours, 11,400 Feet

Meals Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner

Accommodation: Local Lodge

This morning, you begin by walking along the Dudh Kosi through forests of blue pine and rhododendrons.

Some of the farms you pass along the way supply fruits and vegetables to the Everest View Hotel that you will see in a few days. Along the way, you pass such places as Monzo, a small village on the other side of a small tributary, the Kyangshar Khola.

After lunch, you have a stiff climb up what has come to be called the Namche Wall. In recent years floods and avalanches that changed both the route and the lives of the people affected by these cataclysms have altered the trail to Namche. As you start out, you will see remnants of the old trail. Your path will take you across the river several times, past fields, waterfalls and inns; and through the tiny village of Jorsale. About an hour after Jorsale is the entrance to Sagarmatha National Park. Here you will get permits for your trek through Khumbu. You descend a bit, cross the river once more, and begin your climb to Namche. Watch carefully as you climb. Should you see a yak coming in the opposite direction, be sure to head over against the side of the mountain, not near the edge of the trail! The climb from 9,300’ to Namche at 11,400’ should take 3-­‐‑4 hours. We will find our teahouse lodge, and then explore the village and museum. Over the years Namche has grown substantially. During the early years of the Chinese occupation of Tibet, Namche was a major stop for refugees who crossed the border over nearby Nangpa La. Today the town has a mixed Tibetan and Sherpa population, not to mention an assortment of trekkers and mountaineers. There are stores filled with overpriced antiques, souvenirs, and trekking gear. The village has a variety of inns, most now cooking with microwave ovens. It is also a nice place from which to watch the sunset over Thamserku and the other Everest area mountains.

Day 5: Free Day In Namche

Meals: Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner

Accommodation: Local Lodge

Today is free to explore the town, visit the museum with its explanation of the history and ecology of the area, stop by the READ Library, send e-­‐‑mails, and wander the different shops.

Day 6: Hike To Thyangboche – 6 Hours, 12,700 Feet

Meals Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner

Accommodation: Local Lodge

After leaving Namche and climbing to the top of the ridge, you come to a level mountain path that offers an excellent panorama of Thamserku, Kanteiga, and Kusum Kangruru. To the right there is a steep cliff that drops down to the Dudh Koshi, faintly visible on the valley floor below. As you make your way around a branch ridge, Ama Dablam [8125 m], Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse [7855 m], and Tawetse [6501 m] suddenly appear. After a gentle descent the mountain path ends. You come to the fork leading to Gokyo at a teahouse amid rhododendron thickets. Do not take that fork. Descend past two teahouses and pass through the village of Tashinga, entering a forested area. Though you cannot see it, you can hear the Dudh Koshi and soon you descend to the river. When you cross a wooden bridge to the left bank, you arrive at Phunki Tenga. It is a long climb up from the river to Thyangboche; the first half is especially steep. As you climb through the forested zone, the incline eases and a splendid view appears. Continue climbing the mountainside diagonally until you come to the stone gate built by lamas, which marks your entry into Thyangboche.

Day 7: Free Day In Thyangboche

Meals: Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner

Accommodation: Local Lodge

You will spend today exploring Thyangboche and enjoying the monastery. Somewhere around the end of the late 16th century, due to a series of religious wars in Tibet, many of the Nyingmapas, or “Red Hats,” fled south into Nepal, and established the first monasteries at Pangboche and at Thami as offshoots of Rongphu near Everest Base Camp in Tibet. Legend has it that Lama Sange Dorje, the founder of these monasteries, flew over the Himalayas, landing at Pangboche and at Thyangboche, leaving his imprint in rocks as he lit down. He also shaved his whiskers, which grew into the trees surrounding the monastery. Thyangboche’s charter has the seal of the Abbot of Rongphu. During the time you are there, you can tour the monastery, and perhaps have an audience with Thyangboche Rimpoche. In the afternoon, you can climb the hill overlooking the monastery and contemplate the mountains and buildings below. In the evening, you can visit some of the lodges or just enjoy the quiet of the area.

Day 8: Hike To Pheriche – 6 Hours, 14,340 Feet

Meals: Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner

Accommodation: Local Lodge

Leaving Thyangboche with its representative Himalayan scenery -­‐‑monastery, chortens, and the Khumbu Mountains as a backdrop, you descend through a rhododendron-­‐‑covered area and emerge into a pleasant level area. Hunting has been banned in the area and pheasants and other birds can be found in abundance. The Danphe, or national bird of Nepal is native to the area. The first place you come to is Devuche, a small but very beautiful nunnery. You can stop here for a bit, letting the beauty of the forest seep into your soul. You continue on to Minlinggo and leave the mountain path to cross over a suspension bridge to the left bank of the Imja Khola. The trail continues up the mountain path while Ama Dablam, and Kanteiga [22,211 ft.) appear on the opposite bank.

As you ascend the chorten‑lined route, you come to a fork. The upper path goes by way of Pangboche Terin and a monastery, but you take the lower path by way of Pangboche Olin and its stone wall ‑enclosed potato fields. Pass through a village and cross a stream to a path, which skirts a rocky area to, terraced hills along the riverbank. Climb past the tree line on a gently sloping path amid low scrub to Orsho.

As the south cliffs of Lhotse loom before you, you walk through the rolling pasturage for yaks and come to a fork in the path. The path along the Imja Khola goes from Dingboche to Chhukhung, but you take the path on the left to Pheriche. Climb the mountain path from Tsuro Kharka and cross a ridge to a wooden bridge over the stream that flows from Khumbu Glacier. It is an easy climb to Pheriche.

Day 9: Acclimatization In Pheriche

Meals: Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner

Accommodation: Local Lodge

You can spend the day exploring Pheriche and adjusting to the 1000 feet of altitude change. Pheriche offers a vista of Tawache to the left and the unfamiliar back view of Ama Dablam and you can explore some of the paths here. This town offers a couple of hotels, and a national park lodge. Most important, there is a trekker’s aid post, supported by the Himalayan Rescue Association (HRA) and the Tokyo Medical College. During trekking season, one can always find a doctor skilled in the study and treatment of altitude sickness. HRH also offers classes teaching trekkers about altitude, acclimatization, and the various ailments caused by the rarefied atmosphere. You can pay a visit to the clinic and get a sense of their work in the area.

Day 10: Trek Pheriche To Lobuche – 5 Hours, 16,175 Feet

Meals: Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner

Accommodation: Local Lodge

You leave the village and walk into a grass-­‐‑carpeted valley to Phaling Karpo, where you begin a long upward climb. The small mountain of stones and pebbles straight ahead is the terminal moraine of Khumbu Glacier. After fording the stream that emanates from the glacier, you climb to Tukla, which has three hotels. From this point on, you begin to feel the effects of high altitude and each step becomes difficult. At last the ascent ends, and you come to a level area. The village here at 16,745’ is Dugla. Above Dugla is a row of stone chortens dedicated to six Sherpas who died in an avalanche in 1970 on a Japanese Everest skiing expedition. The next three monuments are for climbers who also perished on Everest. You then wind around a lateral moraine of Khumbu Glacier and enter the zone of ablation. Fording a stream, you walk along a mountainside route with Pumo Ri [23,514 ft.] straight ahead and Nuptse to the right. The trail contours from here along the west side of the valley to Lobuche, the staging point for trekkers who want to go to Everest Base camp or Kalapatar, and a way station for climbers seeking more rarefied heights. In good weather, Lobuche, except for its crowds, is a beautiful spot, with wonderful sunset views of Nuptse. In bad weather when camping is difficult, the few lodges there become terribly overcrowded and toilet facilities are bad, at best. In recent years, a new toilet area has been built, alleviating some of the problems, but the number of trekkers still overburdens the infrastructure. You will spend the night with the rest of the world in Lobuche.

Day 11: Trek To Kalapatar (18,192 Feet) And Back To Gorak Shep – 7 Hours, 16,929 Feet

Meals: Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner

Accommodation: Local Lodge

Rising early, as the sun is caressing the top of Pumo Ri, you follow a level path through the zone of ablation. Standing atop the moraine after a short climb, you look down upon the Khumbu Glacier from the left. Following the footpath, you cut across the rocky Changri Glacier and climb up the lateral moraine on the opposite bank. Straight ahead is Kalapatar and below is Gorak Shep. You descend diagonally down the moraine to the level area of Gorak Shep (Gorak Shlep to some of us!) with its two stone huts. Even if you walk very slowly from Lobuche in the morning you will arrive in Gorak Shep about noon. Here you can find several more monuments to climbers who have died on Everest, as well as trekkers who have succumbed to the altitude. There is also a small lake, which may or may not be frozen.

After lunch if you are feeling well, you may climb to Kalapatar. The climb is very difficult in the beginning because the first incline is extremely steep. While the angle of incline eases after the first hill, it is still a very long walk. Suddenly, as you walk, around a bend, the very beautiful summit of Pumo Ri (23,442’) comes into view.

Below Pumori is a small black hill, our destination – Kalapatar. In the scale of things, Kalapatar looks teeny tiny, but to us, at this altitude, the ascent will be trying but extraordinarily rewarding. You continue climbing along the mulde or trough at the edge of the lateral moraine of the glacier, to a tributary glacier at the foot of Pumo Ri. Walking out on the ridge, you stare at the Khumbu Ice Fall before you. This area, above all, has claimed the lives of more Sherpas than any other part of Everest. In the early days of climbing, and today with many of the private expeditions, the Sherpas are the ones who trek back and forth along this icefall, the most dangerous part of the Everest route, carrying food and supplies for the climbers. Many have died in the process. Behind the icefall, more than 12,000’ feet higher than you are standing, looms the summit of Everest. You can also see Lho Lha, one of the passes between Nepal and Tibet. As you head for the col, on rocky ridge to the right is the highest viewpoint at 18,192 feet, but the ridge on the left is not much lower. The view from either ridge is splendid enough to make you forget the difficult climb. Long awaited Everest and Nuptse -­‐‑ the world’s highest peaks -­‐‑ and Ama Dablam, Kanteiga, Thameserku, and Tawache to the south together with Pumo Ri above and extending to China’s Changtse [24,780] – all from a magnificent 360 degree panorama. If you are comfortable and warm, it is fun to stay and watch sunset on the mountains or you can descend to Gorak “Shlep” for the night.

Day 12: Trek To Base Camp (17,539 Feet) And Back To Lobuche – 7 Hours

Meals: Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner

Accommodation: Local Lodge

You have a long day. After breakfast, you start by passing in front of a yak field and crossing an old glacial lateral moraine. Continue along the zone of ablation past a lake and emerge on the right bank of Khumbu Glacier. After walking for a short while along a rocky area onto the glacier, you then follow footpaths and cairns to the center of the glacier. To the left you look up to Pumo Ri and to the right Nuptse. You make your way through ice pinnacles and plateaus and finally arrive at Mt. Everest Base Camp near Pumo Ri. Straight ahead is the jagged icefall‑ a desolate world enclosed by walls of rock and ice. In the late spring, you will likely see a number of climbers there, but in the fall, there is less. Often you will see groups cleaning the area. After the incredible views you had yesterday, Base Camp can perhaps be an anti-­‐‑climax, as you cannot see Everest from the site. Leaving Base Camp, you trek back to Lobuche for the night.

Day 13: Lobuche To Dingboche

Meals: Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner

Accommodation: Local Lodge

You begin your real descent today, retracing your steps first to Dugla. Then you will take a new trail along the side of the hill, far above the valley floor. In bad weather, this trail can be both very narrow and very crowded. We will pass a few yak pastures in a place called Dusa, and then descend sharply to the town of Dingboche. Here you can find a few teashops and beautiful views of the mountains. You will spend the rest of the days wandering around, and paying a visit to the Chukhang Glacier to look over Nepal’s most popular trekking peak, Imja Tse or Island Peak.

Day 14: Dingboche To Thyangboche Via Pangboche

Meals: Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner

Accommodation: Local Lodge

This morning you follow a steep trail up towards the town of Pangboche. This is the highest year-­‐‑round inhabited village in the area. There is a small gompa that used to house a yeti skull. Sadly, quite a few years ago the skull was stolen by a villager and sold to collectors. The theft illustrates the continuing problem of stealing artifacts, which are integral parts of a country’s culture, to satisfy the greed of collectors and the desire of the local people for more material wealth. The gompa, built about 300 years ago is the oldest in Khumbu. Legend has it that Lama Sange Dorji, the patron saint of the village pulled some of the hairs from his chin, and scattered them about. The gnarled juniper trees that line the path near the gompa are said to have sprouted from these hairs.

After exploring Pangboche you can continue on down to Thyangboche for the night.

Day 15: Thyangboche To Jorsali

Meals: Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner

Accommodation: Local Lodge

Your trail once again winds through forests and along sweet scented hillsides, past mani stones, across the Dudh Kosi River, and back towards the town of Namche. Early in the morning, there is a high likelihood of seeing deer and birds in the forests. From Namche, you descend the Namche Wall that you climbed what seems an eternity ago, and wander along the river back to Jorsali.

Day 16: Jorsali To Lukla

Meals: Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner

Accommodation: Local Lodge

Today is your last trekking day, but the distance is not great. After a leisurely breakfast, you head back to Lukla. On arrival, you have time to explore the town. Come evening, you have a last dinner with your entire crew and can share any gifts you wish.

Day 17: Fly Kathmandu. Free Afternoon

Meals: Breakfast

Accommodation: Kathmandu Guest House, Hotel Yak And Yeti Or Dwarikas

Arriving, you need to pray that your plane is on time and the weather is good. Assuming all is on schedule, you will be back in Kathmandu before lunch.

The rest of the day is free for resting, a massage, wandering, or just sitting at the hotel.

Day 18: Patan And Bhaktapur

Meals: Breakfast and Dinner

Accommodation: Kathmandu Guest House, Hotel Yak And Yeti Or Dwarikas

You rise early to spend the morning in Patan, one of the three cities of the Kathmandu Valley. Also called Lalitpur, the “Beautiful City,” Patan is the most Buddhist of the three cities and famous for its excellent metalwork. In the morning, you will visit the Golden Temple, the largest Newar Buddhist monastery in the valley and a superb example of Newari metal craft. At this hour, you will participate in the morning rituals at the temple, where a constant stream of devotees offer their puja or worship to the main shrine image of Shakyamuni Buddha. Leaving the temple, you can spend some time with one of the best makers of singing bowls. He can talk about how the bowls are made, how to use them for curing ailments and the tonality of different bowls. You then walk to the house of the Kumari, the living goddess, who manifests herself in the body of a virgin girl. The Goddess Kumari is one of the most popular deities in the valley, worshipped equally by Hindus and Buddhists. At her home, unless there is a special festival or occasion, you will take her darshan, that is, receive her divine vision. You will participate in her private worship, performed by members of her family and rarely seen by tourists. This will also be an opportunity to talk to her family, if available, and learn about what it is like to be a parent of a goddess and what her life is like. When you are done, you can have lunch at the Patan Museum in Dhurbar Square. From Patan, it is a short drive to Bhaktapur, the City of Devotees, and a visit to its Dhurbar Square, museum and unique temples. Bhaktapur resembles the Kathmandu of 20 years ago. In the center of town few cars are allowed and the original architecture of the valley has been retained. Here you can see the beautiful woodcarvings for which the Newari artisans of the valley are rightly famous. Bhaktapur is also known for its pottery. In one of the side squares, on working days, you can see the Kumalis, or potters making and firing their pots as they have done for centuries.

Tonight, you will have a farewell dinner at the marvelous French restaurant, Chez Caroline.

Day 19: Home Or Onward

Meals: Breakfast

The morning is free for last minute shopping. When appropriate, you will transfer to the airport for your onward flight.