Compare The Hidden World of Laos by Myths and Mountains

Day 1: Fly Luang Prabang From Bankgok on Pg 941 (0940/1140). Sunset on Mt. Phousi

Accommodation: Kidara or Mekong Riverview

Fly Luang Prabang from Bangkok on PG 941 (0940/1140). On arrival in Luang Prabang, you will clear immigration and customs. Leaving the airport, you will see your guide holding a sign with your name on it. He will take you to your hotel. Late in the afternoon, you can climb up on Mt. Phousi for sunset, or walk down along the river.

Luang Prabang is the old sovereign capital of Laos, and one of the gems of Indochina. If you rise early enough, you can watch the saffron robed monks walking the streets with their begging bowls to get their daily ration of rice from the townspeople. In Laos, many young men opt to become monks at some period in their lives, often to get a good education. The monks are supposed to walk straight, without looking at those who feed them, and will not eat after midday.

About 1000 feet above sea level at the confluence of the upper Mekong and the Nam Khan rivers,  Luang Prabang was described in Harry Franck’s book, East of Siam, as “in many ways, what idealists picture the cities of utopia to be.”  The name refers to the holy Pra Bang, the most sacred Laotian Buddha image given to Fa Ngoum, the first monarch of Lane Xang, or the Land of a Million Elephants, in the 14th century. The town is small and peaceful and has various quarters, which specialize in traditional crafts silver carving, silk weaving, and sausage making. The pagoda spires and gold trim on the was and temples sparkle in the morning light, as orange robed monks wander the narrow streets with their begging bowls, seeking rice from the local inhabitants. The various names of the city reflect its history. Originally, legend has it that two resident hermits, who called it Xieng Thong, or “Copper Tree City”, selected the site. Later, its name was changed to Chawa, a Laotian version of Java. Luang Prabang was the capital of the Lane Xang Empire from the 14th to the 16th centuries, before King Setthathirat moved his headquarters to Vientiane in 1563. Although its importance was diminished, Luang Prabang was an important royal center until the communist takeover of 1975 and the demise of the monarchy.

Late in the afternoon, depending on how you feel, you can either walk up to the top of Phousi, the hill that dominates the landscape, and watch sunset on the Mekong, or watch sunset down on the riverbanks

Day 2: Visit Pak Ou Caves and Explore the Town

Meals: Breakfast and Lunch

Accommodation: Kidara or Mekong Riverview

After breakfast, you head down to the river to take a boat ride to the famous Pak Ou Caves. Said to have been discovered by King Setthathirat in the 16th century, the upper and lower caves contain more than 4,000 wood and gold Buddha statues, some more than 300 years old. During the April festival of Pimay, the caves are a major pilgrimage site for local people; and during the dry season, locals pan for gold on the riverbank and sell their finds to Thailand. You can explore the caves and, on the return, stop at Xang Hai (literally translated as “making wine pots”), where the moonshine whiskey lauDlao is made.

Leaving the palace, you circle around past Wat Mai Suwannaphumaham, with its gilded terrace, and Wat Paa Huak, a very old temple with extraordinary murals.

You will also have time to visit the textile gallery Ock Pop Tok and their weaving center. Veomanee and Joanne co founded Ock Pop Tok in April 2000. Veomanee’s mother is from Laoso primary silk weaving region, Sam Nua., and the family was renowned for its weaving. Veo learned to weave at an early age and became proficient in weaving as well as silk dying with natural dyes. At 16, Veo left high school to work in the hospitality industry and, while conversing with foreigners; she picked up her excellent English. Veo and Joanne met in 1999 at an evening school in Luang Prabang where Joanne was teaching. Veo then taught Joanne to weave in her village, Ban Xieng Leck. In April 2000 Veo and Joanne approached Deng, Goy and Noy with the idea of weaving specifically for a gallery, and, after the production of around 60 pieces, the gallery opened in October of the same year.

Day 3: Visit Khouang Si Falls, Local Villages, Market and Caruso Lao

Meals: Breakfast and Lunch

Accommodation: Kidara or Mekong Riverview

This morning, you might want to rise early to see the monks as they ask for their daily alms.

After breakfast, you take another trip into the countryside today to see the scenery and visit some of the local villages. Your primary destination is the Khouang Si Waterfalls, a spectacularly beautiful area on a tributary of the Mekong. Here blue green waters tumble over cliffs into turquoise pools surrounded by lush jungle vegetation and large red poinsettias. Multi colored butterflies fly in and out among the flowers and children bathe in the water. You can enjoy the falls and have a quiet picnic lunch in the area.

As you head back, you will visit several different weaving villages, one of which is also known for producing sa a paper made from mulberry leaves. The tradition of hand woven textiles is one of the most varied and vital in Laos, and almost entirely practiced by women. The Lao Loum of Luang Prabang produce sarongs or pha sin made primarily of silk with narrow vertical stripes of alternating dark and light. In some cases, French artists inspired the designs

The Hmong people originated in the mountains of Southern China. Despite their rich oral tradition and except for accounts by outsiders, there are no written records of their past. Thus Hmong history has been passed down through legends and ritual ceremonies from one generation to another. In the 1960s and 1970s, many Hmong were secretly recruited by the American army and the CIA to fight against communism in Laos. A respected villager in Ban Na Ouane will explain the history of the Hmong people and how they have managed to retain their culture and traditions even with the development of tourism and technology within the country.

Back in Luang Prabang, you check out the textiles and products of Mme. Sandra Yuck at her Caruso Lao shop.

Day 4: Touring In Luang Prabang, Cooking Class with Local Family

Meals: Breakfast and Lunch

Accommodation: Kidara or Mekong Riverview

The day begins with some more exploration of Luang Prabang. The first stop is the talat or market. Then, when you are ready, you can follow the river to Wat Xieng Thong – one of Luang Prabang’s most important temples – then walk to Wat Wisunalat, one of the oldest temples in the city with its nearby Watermelon Stupa – That Makmo. Nearby and famous for its holy ancient banyan trees is Wat Aham.

Mid afternoon, you will drive about 20 minutes to the home of a local family. Here, you will begin your visit with a traditional Baci Ceremony. Ancient Lao legend dictates that a human is composed of 32 organs watched over by the kwan or spirits. When all the kwan are safe inside the body, there is no illness or disequilibrium. One of the goals of a Baci ceremony is to summon any kwan that may be roaming outside to return to the body to maintain health and balance.

During the ceremony a white silk or cotton thread, symbolic of “peace, harmony good fortune, good health and human warmth and community,” is tied around the right wrist of the individual or individuals who are being blessed. But, there is another charming legend about the white thread and marriage that forms another part of the Lao mythology. To quote:

There is also a legend that links the cotton threados significance to a successful and happy married life. In Laos, where a traditional way of life is of trust on beliefs and superstitions, a marriage ceremony has a special link to an ancient legend and to the thread tying ceremony of the Baci celebration. According to their legend, marriages are predetermined in heaven by what is termed as nene or pLove Karmap (destiny). In the heavenly garden, each individual has a tree with branches cuddling to the soul of his or her life partner. Eventually such pre destined intertwined trees move to earth as human beings with their wrists tied together by a cotton thread. In the process of their coming to the earth, the cotton thread binding them is severed by “wind of scissors” and they are born on earth as separate individuals. Once born on the earth, they search for their soul mates and when they find them they marry, and by performing the Baci ceremony they are rejoined by tying the symbolic cotton thread. If the cotton thread so tied remains intact for three days then the marriage is considered fortunate and lucky for the couple.

From Marriage and the Baci Ceremony,muangla.com

After the Baci Ceremony, you will spend time with your hosts learning to cook a Lao meal. Afterwards, you can all enjoy the fruits of your labors and dine together.

Day 5: Drive Phonesavan

Meals: Breakfast and Lunch

Accommodation: Vansana Plain of Jars Hotel

After an early breakfast, you head out along mountain roads with stunning forest views, lush valleys and interesting limestone karst formations. You start early this morning, around 8am for the drive to Xiengkhuang or Phonesavan, famous for the ‘Plain of Jars’. The road follows a twisty mountain route, and you make the first stop at Houi Hei, offering great views of the surrounding mountains.

Continuing on, you come to Ban Kiu Kam Pone, a Khmu village, and can wander around, before driving on to Phou Khoun for lunch.

After lunch, you continue on to Xiengkhuang province, reaching the highest altitude of the day 4900 feet above sea level, just after Phou Khoun, and then stop at Ban Son Boom, a Hmong village.

The final visits of the day are a reminder that this region played a major part during the Vietnam War – a hidden Buddha Cave, that served as an army hospital during the war, and a stop to visit an old Russian tank.

Day 6: Visit Plain of Jars and Muang Khoun

Meals: Breakfast and Lunch

Accommodation: Vansana Plain of Jars Hotel

In the morning, you can explore the Plain of Jars. One of archeology’s unsolved mysteries, 300 or so carved stone jars are scattered over a 625 square mile undulating plateau. The stone from which the jars were carved is not native to the area, and has provoked much discussion about its origins. One legend relates that the jars held laoDlao, the local brew for a victory party celebrated by King Koon Chuong and his South China troops. More likely is the theory that they are 2000 year old funeral urns. You can walk between the different Jar sites, enjoying not only the archeological remains, but also the views of the countryside.

The  Plain  of  Jars  also  bears  scars  from  the  Vietnam  era.

Home to many of Vang Pao’s Hmong tribe’s people and a very strategic royalist bastion, the Plain was the doorway to t he capital of Laos. Despite massive bombing by the U.S. and its allies and major battles involving royalist and Hmong forces, the Plain fell to the Pathet Lao. All in all, well over half a million tons of bombs had been dropped on the Plain of Jars by the end of the war. Today, bomb craters dot the terrain, fences constructed of bombshells surround local houses, and children are taught to fear unexploded mines, grenades, and bombs that still lie in fields and forests.

`In the afternoon, you head to Muang Khoun, an ancient capital and stronghold for the Xieng Khuang royal family, that was destroyed during the Vietnam war. The town was rebuilt after 1975.with rows of wooden Lao houses and a market area surrounded by beautiful mountains. You can visit the town, market area, and the nearby minority village of Tai Phouari.

Day 7: Sunday Market and Others, Tam Piu and Villages

Meals: Breakfast and Lunch

Accommodation: Vansana Plain of Jars Hotel

Today is Sunday, the day of the large Talat Hmong Market. You can visit this and some of the local markets in and around Phonesavan.

You can also head out towards Tam Piu Cave, not terribly interesting as a cave any more, but you stop on the way at Hmong and Thai Dam villages along the way. On the return, you can stop in Ban Khay, and see where the Ho Chi Minh trail cut through Laos.

On the return, time permitting, you visit to UXO Laos, (www.uxolaos.org) to see in action, the great work that the teams are doing in clearing the unexploded ordinance left over from the Secret War, a serious issue that still affects everyday lives in the region.

Day 8: Fly Vientiane on QV 402 (1030/1100) and Visit Park

Meals: Breakfast and Dinner

Accommodation: Settha Palace Hotel

This morning, you head to the airport to catch QV 402 (1030/1100) to Vientiane. The name, Vientiane actually means either “Sandalwood City” or “Moon City.” A quiet town of less than half a million people, Vientiane is located on a bend of the Mekong, in the middle of a very fertile alluvial plain.

On arrival, you can have some lunch on your own. Then, mid afternoon, you head to Patuxai, the triumphal arch resembling France’s Arc de Triomphe. Climbing up to the top, you have an excellent view of the city. From here, you can take a sunset walk along the banks of the Mekong.

Day 9: Visit Vientiane

Meals: Breakfast and Dinner

Accommodation: Settha Palace Hotel

You begin your day by visiting the That Luang Stupa, built in 1566 and the heart of Vientiane. Near by is Pratuxai Park, where you were yesterday.

Then you can see Wat Sisaket, built in 1818 by King Chao Anou and the oldest temple in Vientiane and Wat Phra Keo, the former temple of the Lao monarchy and now a museum focusing on the daily life of the Lao Buddhists down the years.

You also have the chance to visit the textile museum and textile workshop of Mme. Taykeo – quite a special place producing very traditional textiles with vegetable dyes. You also visit Carol Cassidy’s house and workshop, also famous for the quality of its textiles

A good way to end your day is at the city market, the Talad Sao, replete with local color, tropical foods, and everyday household and personal goods.

Tonight you will have dinner at a local restaurant.

Day 10: Fly Pakse on Qv 305 (0615/0705). Visit Bolaven Plateau

Meals: Breakfast and Lunch

Accommodation: Champasak Palace Hotel

Today, you will fly to Pakse in Champasak Province. Champasak Province, of which Pakse is the capital, has a long history, dating back to the Kambuja occupation during the early Funan and Chenla empires of the first through the ninth centuries. From the 10th through 13th centuries, the area formed part of the Cambodia Angkor dynasty, eventually becoming an independent Lao kingdom the 18th century. The temples and monuments reflect this long history.

On arrival, you will head up to the Boloven Plateau. As you drive, you can stop at some of the ethnic villages in the area. Known for its delicious coffee, which was introduced by Frenchman Jean Dauplay in the 1930s, and wonderful durians, a marvelous rich, creamy fruit, the area has been the southos main farmland. Although much of the Boloven Plateau was very heavily bombed during our secret warp in Laos, farmers and villagers are returning to make their homes. Not only can you explore the jungle and the waterfalls of the area, we will visit some of the different tribal people Alak, Suay, Katou and Bru. Although we may want to see these people clothed in their colorful native costumes, most likely, they will be clothed in pLao Loum, or lowland Lao clothes, and live in typical Lao houses. Since the dominant ethnic group is the Lao Loum, these people do not want to appear different and have taken on the lowland Lao customs.

Despite the change in clothes, these tribes have retained key elements of their culture. The Alak still sacrifice water buffaloes during a yearly festival and carve wooden caskets for all members of the household well before they die. The Suay are famous elephant trainers and handlers, and the Katou are known for their bright colored weavings.

TIP – Bring home some scented coffee from this area – very special!

Note: You will be returning to this hotel in a few days, therefore, if you wish, you can pack a small bag for the next few nights and leave your larger luggage at this hotel, which you can get when you come back on Day 13.

Day 11: Drive Don Khong Island Via Um Muang

Meals: Breakfast and Lunch

Accommodation: Senesothxeune  Hotel

This morning, you will head south along the Mekong to Don Khong.

Your first stop will be at the almost unknown complex of UmMuang. This site is everything a jungle temple should be. After disembarking, you wander through a small village and past a school into the jungle. After a short distance, you begin to see the stones of an ancient temple strewn along the path. Slightly farther, you come upon the ruins of an old Hindu temple and assorted other smaller buildings. Strewn around the bushes are many other carved stone slabs, suggesting that there is still much to be discovered. The ruins date back to the sixth century and are contemporary with the early Hindu beginnings of Wat Phu. Most likely, Um Muang was part of a series of temples and rest places that ran along the Mekong down into Cambodia.

From Um Muang, you retrace your steps, board a ferry, and continue on to Khong Island, the largest of more than 4,000 islands that dot the southern tip of the Mekong, just above the Cambodian border. The main village, Muang Khong, is a former French settlement. When you arrive, you can have tea at the hotel and explore the area.

Day 12: Visit Don Det and Don Khone, Including Li Phi Falls

Meals: Breakfast and Lunch

Accommodation: Senesothxeune  Hotel

After breakfast, you can take a traditional boat across the Mekong to Don Det and Don Khone Islands.  A former railway bridge connects the islands. (The railway stopped running in 1945.) The larger island, Don Det, is famous for the cultivation of coconut, bamboo and kapok. From here you head to Ban Khone Village, the main village on Don Khone Island, with several old French villas. This island was once used by the French as a by pass around the rapids for cargo boats coming upriver from Phnom Penh. There was even 5 km of narrow gauge railway track to link the ports along the string of rapids – the only track ever built by the French in Laos. From the shore, you can see the old colonial style customs house. You can explore the town, and then follow along the tracks till you come to an old locomotive and boiler car sitting on remnants of track.

Additionally, you will head to Li Phi falls, a series of ranging rapids tumbling madly through a narrow gorge at the western end of the island.  Late in the day you will return to Don Khong Island.

Day 13: Drive Pakse, Visiting Khone Phapeng and Wat Phu

Meals: Breakfast and Lunch

Accommodation: Champasak Palace Hotel

This morning, you will take the boat to the other side of the river, where your car awaits. Climbing in, you will head back to Pakse, stopping at several sites along the way. If all goes well, you may even be able to ride elephants! The first stop will be at Khone Phapeng Falls, said to be the perhaps the widest in the world and certainly the biggest in Southeast Asia. The falls were narrowly saved from being turned into part of a Thai style 5 star hotel, casino, and golf course, heliport and landing pad. The then Prime Minister, Khamtay Siphandone, was unceremoniously ejected from his post for being too “chummy” with Thai businessmen.

The second important stop will be at Wat Phu, nestled at the foot of Phou Passak or Linga Parvata, as the Hindu Khmers called the linga shaped hill behind their temple. Wat Phu dates back to the fifth and sixth centuries, more than 200 years older than the earliest Angkor structures. In its earliest stages, Wat Phu was dedicated to the Hindu God Siva, although it later became a Buddhist temple, and most of the carvings are Hindu. Sadly, very little is known about the whole temple complex, but scholar’s think it may have been part of the ancient capital complex of Chenla. Some of the later building work is credited to Suryavarman II (1131-1150), who was responsible for starting construction of Angkor Wat. The setting is dramatic, with its long processional walkway leading past the men and womens, palace, and a pavilion dedicated to Sivas vehicle, Nandi, the bull. Climbing the steps overlooking the palace reservoir and village below, you come finally to the main sanctuary. Today, a statue of the Buddha greets you, but in the past a Siva Linga, bathed by sacred spring water, represented the deity. Behind the structure is a cave where the spring water surfaced and was piped to the temple.

Around the area is a walk dotted with huge stones and statues. At one point, one comes upon a human shaped stone that researchers suggest may have been part of a festival of human sacrifice. Today, in February, visitors can still see the Wat Phou Festival, minus the sacrifice!

Day 14: Drive Ubon Ratchetani Via Pha Taem Cliff Paintings. Fly Bangkok

Meals: Breakfast

This morning, you will drive across the new October 2000 finished bridge over the Mekong to the border in Thailand, crossing at Ubon Ratchathani. Here you can make a special side trip to see an archeological wonder, the Pha Taem Cliff Paintings. Covering an almost 1000 foot section of sandstone overlooking the Mekong are well preserved cliff paintings that date back 2000-4000 years. Possibly related to the Neolithic inhabitants of Ban Chiang, the figures include human images, buffalo, catfish, and abstract designs, reminiscent of our American Indian paintings.

Late in the afternoon, you will transfer to the airport and catch TG 2009 (1805/1910) back to Bangkok.

On arrival, you will be met and transferred, if you wish, to the international airport, the Miracle Hometel, or the Novotel Suvarnabhumi (not included)