Tibet: Beyond Everest Base Camp

DAY 01: ARRIVE CHENGDU Arriving in Chengdu, you will clear Chinese customs and immigration. Exiting with your baggage, you will be met by our China operator, holding your names on a sign. He will transfer you to your hotel. At the same time, he will get your signatures on the relevant documents, process your Tibet permit, and return it to you at the hotel. Accommodation : BUDDHA ZEN OR TIBET HOTEL Meals : NONE DAY 02: TOUR CHENGDU This morning you can do some touring in Chengdu, the capital of Sichuan Province, and its administrative, cultural and educational center.  The city is also a major industrial base and the economic, social and political heart and soul of Southwest China. You will begin your day with a visit to Wenshu Yuan, the largest and best preserved Buddhist temple in the city. Wenshu dates back to the Tang Dynasty, and was renamed in the 17th century after a Buddhist monk who had made the monastery his home. The monastery is extremely active and constantly filled with worshippers. The alley nearby the monastery is also a “happening”, with teahouses, vendors, fortune tellers, and all sorts of other things and people. After the monastery, you will visit the Panda Breeding Center to see the adult and baby pandas. Finally, in the afternoon, if you feel like it, your guide can take you to the Sichuan Opera School to see the classroom and studio. If the timing is right, we will see a performance.  Accommodation : BUDDHA ZEN OR TIBET HOTEL Meals : Breakfast DAY 03: FLY LHASA. EXPLORE BARKHOR This morning, you will transfer to the airport for your flight to Lhasa. Upon arrival, you will be met by your Tibetan guide and transferred to your hotel. When you are unpacked and more accustomed to the thin air, you can take the rest of the afternoon to explore the fabulous market or Barkhor that surrounds the Jokhang. Accommodation : KYICHU HOTEL OR SHANGRILA Meals : Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner DAY 04: JOKHANG, POTALA, NORBULINKHA AND LUKHANG Rising early you will grab a quick breakfast.  Around 7:30am you head back to the Barkhor and the Jokhang, spiritual center of Tibet and destination of millions of Tibetan Pilgrims. The Jokhang, built in 767AD by Tibet’s first Buddhist King, Songtsen Gampo, is the heart of this Buddhist world. You walk the kora or pilgrim route, around the Barkhor with the early morning pilgrims. After the outside kora you enter the temple and walk the nangkhor, or inside of the temple. On the roof of the Jokhang, you can take pictures of the market and pilgrims below, and the Potala on the hill across the square. From the Jokhang, you will head to the Potala, the former winter palace of the Dalai Lama, built on the escarpments of Red Hill and rising more than 1000m above the valley floor. Your visit to the Potala complete, youcan have lunch nearby. After lunch, you will visit the Norbulinka, once named Jewel Park and now People’s Park.  The Norbulinka was the former summer palace of successive Dalai Lamas from 1755, and suffered extensive damage during the Cultural Revolution.  Much has been rebuilt, and it is fascinating to see how the Dalai Lama actually lived. Painted on one of the walls is a picture of the 14th Dalai Lama and his family – the only one still prominent in Tibet. Later in the day, if you are not exhausted, you can visit the Lukhang, set in the middle of a lake. At onetime, one would take a boat across the lake. Now the area is a Chinese theme park, and it is fun to see how the people use the area. The temple is one of the gems of Lhasa, and contains artwork related to Tibetan medical practices.  Accommodation : KYICHU HOTEL OR SHANGRILA Meals : Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner DAY 05: VISIT PHABONKHA AND SERA MONASTERIES Today you travel to the suburbs of Lhasa to visit two of the most interesting of the Buddhist monasteries. The first, Phabonkha, served as a meditation site during the time of Songtsen Gampo, and contains a plaque commemorating the first Tibetan script. The monastery also serves as a sky burial site, and if we are early enough, we can still see the great Himalayan Vultures circling overhead, waiting for their dinner. In the last part of the 8th century, the very first seven Tibetan monks stayed here, after receiving their ordination from the Indian Shankarakshita. From here, you will have a simple lunch in a local restaurant, and then head to Sera, in time for the 3pm debates. Sera, is a 15th century Gelugpa monastery, founded by one of Tsong Khapams disciples, and is famous for its Tantric teachings. The name Sera means merciful. Years ago, a rivalry existed between Sera and Drepung (means Rice Heap). The monks from Sera thought their hail would destroy Drepungms rice, while Sera boasted the dob-dobs, an elite corps of warrior monks, much feared by other Buddhist leaders.  Accommodation : KYICHU HOTEL OR SHANGRILA Meals : Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner DAY 06: DRIVE GYANTSE. VISIT KUMBUM AND POSSIBLY PELIOR CHODE Leaving Lhasa, you will drive the 130 miles to Gyantse, once Tibet’s third most important city. Gyantse lies at the head of the Nyangchu Valley astride the main trade routes from India, Bhutan, and Nepal to Lhasa. Made wealthy by selling sheep and yak wool, the rich lords of the city pooled their resources in the early 1400’s to build the Kumbum, a Nepalese-style stupa containing some of the best preserved and most unique art in Tibet, and Peljor Chode, the spectacular assembly hall. In the 15th century, there were actually nine major monasteries near or in the town.  Nearby, in 1904, Young husband, leader of the British expedition to Lhasa, waged a major battle, killing several hundred Tibetans.  He stayed on for a month in the castle, before proceeding to Lhasa.  The Kumbum is truly the synthesis of Nepali(Newari)/Tibetan art and architecture. The building itself contains 112 chapels each with spectacular statues and paintings in remarkably good repair. As one moves from the lower to the higher stories, the wall paintings themselves represent higher and higher Buddhist practices. If time permits, you will also visit the Peljor Chode Monastery at the other end of town. The monastery was built in 1418 by Rabten Kunzang.  Excellently preserved, the monastery contains many statues and paintings that date back to its founding.  Without doubt, the statues, paintings and thankas of Gyantse are among some of the most spectacular art of the trip.  Accommodation : GYANTSE HOTEL Meals : Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner DAY 07: DRIVE SHIGATSE AND VISIT TASHILUMPO Rising early you will continue driving west to Shigatse. In the early days of Communism, some of the monks of Shigatse were in collusion with the security bureau and reported anyone accepting or distributing pictures of the Dalai Lama.  They hoped that by cooperating with the Communists, they could save their temple from destruction.  Sadly, it did not work completely.  Nevertheless, Tashilumpo monastery, the oldest and largest Gelugpa Monastery in Tsang province and home to the Panchen Lama, is lovely, and your kora (or pilgrim circuit, will take you past holes for dogs, thought of as “fallen monks,” as well as places to earn merit by rubbing our bodies against holy rocks. You will also have time to explore the bazaar.  Accommodation : TASHI CHOEDE HOTEL Meals : Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner DAY 08: DRIVE OLD TINGRI. MEET TREKKING CREW Your trip today takes you to Old Tingri, the trekker’s gateway to Mount Everest.  The name of this windblown settlement comes from the sound made by a special black rock, thrown all the way from India to Tibet by an incarnation of the Buddha, when the rock struck the ice near the present site of the town. You will meet your trekking crew and sirdar near the town.  Accommodation : SNOW LEOPARD GUEST HOUSE Meals : Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner DAY 09: TINGRI TO YALUNG YAK MEADOW (14,750 FT., 1 1⁄2 HR. DRIVE, 5 HR. TREK) From Tingri, you drive along the road towards Xegar. After crossing the bridge, you head right along a rough track, which runs along the base of the line of hills on the left. The tracks head generally in the direction of Everest, and after about 20 minutes of walking, reach the village of Rizong. Turn right out of the village. Although following the trail is a bit difficult now, head towards another village, visible on the west side of the valley at the base of sandy hillside. About four hours of trekking will take you to the village of Lunhihang, a friendly place to stop for tea. After a tea break, your path will take you past the wind-generator farm in Lungjhang and the town “chang” hall, towards the towering peak of Cho Oyu on. About a mile down the track at the base of the plateau area is a grassy campsite beside the river. Above the camp, about an hour’s trek, you can view the path from Tingri. No large peaks are visible. And Choy is now hidden from view. Accommodation : CAMPING TENT Meals : Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner DAY 10: YALUNG TO LAMDU MEADOW (15,500 FT., 4 d 5 HR. TREK) After breakfast, you start out following the track above camp, climbing slightly around the base of the hills on the east side of the river. After two hours a ruin can be seen on the hillside to the south. The trail now heads east. Keep to the base of the hills on the north side of the river to avoid too many river crossings. After another 30minutes the valley broadens into an open plain. The road/track has already crossed the river to the south side of this plain. The trek route continues around into a side valley to the northeast across marshy ground. There is no actual trail here, but this longer route avoids a pass and offers a protection, grazing and water. About one hour from this marshy area is the campsite further on across a ridge into the next valley Accommodation : CAMPING TENT Meals : Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner DAY 11: LAMDU TO ZANBO VILLAGE (15,200 FT., 7 HR. TREK) Head up the valley towards the obvious col in the distance to a poorly defined trail, which initially follows the base of the low hills on the right. Continue on the trail towards the col. After 40 minutes come to a black ridge, from where the trail descends into a river valley. Follow this river valley. About 3 hours from Lamdu, there is a stone corral on the right. Here the trail climbs to the Lamna La pass, after only 30 minutes of climbing. From the pass, you turn south. There is no trail, but you can use the summit cairn as a marker as you head downwards. The valley is wide and bends in an easterly direction. After about 2 hours, you cross the stream to the left side of the valley and walk towards a rocky promontory. Around the promontory is the village of Zangbo and your camp for the night.  Accommodation : CAMPING TENT Meals : Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner DAY 12: ZANGBO TO RONGBUK VALLEY (16,400 FT., 5 HR. TREK OR 2 HR. DRIVE) From Zangbo, you can clamber over the ridge of hills to the south for a magnificent view directly up the Rongbuk valley to the north face of Everest. There is a trail, but this should be only used in clear weather, as it is easy to lose one’s way.  You head up from Zangbo towards the first summit, a rocky peak. Continuing up you contour around until the Rongbuk valley, with Everest at its head and Gyachung Kang on the side, is visible. From here you descend directly down into the Rongbuk Valley. At the bottom of the valley by the riverside, you head along the west bank until you see the trail. Follow this into the wide stony area from which the Gyachung River flows, draining from the northern face of the Gyachung Kang peak. Head down to the river and cross the small bridge, arriving at the point where the main road from Xegar joins the trek. Here, dwarfed by the towering north face of Everest is Dza Rongphu monastery, your destination for the night. You can reach the monastery in another 4-5 hours by either a spectacular high route or an easier low path.  Once a flourishing retreat center established about 250-350 years ago, today’s Dza Rongphu is much smaller, although a haven for visitors and are treat for monks.  It is built where Ngawang Tenzing Norbu built ayingmapa temple in 1901-02.  Accommodation : CAMPING TENT Meals : Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner DAY 13: EXPLORE BASE CAMP, MONASTERY AND CAVE You can spend the day visiting Base Camp and exploring Dza Rongphu. In the old days, one could easily amble up to the foot of the glacier marking the path up the mountain.  Sadly, with global warming, the glacier has receded dramatically, and it takes more than a day to get there. Nevertheless, it is still interesting to walk up towards the first camp. Additionally, not too far from the monastery is a sacred cave, where Guru Rimpoche was said to have meditated. Nearby is a stream much revered by Tibetans, who will take some of the sacred water back to their homes and family as a treasure.  Accommodation : CAMPING TENT Meals : Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner DAY 14: TREK TO JAPANESE CAMP (17,913 FT., APPROXIMATELY 5 HOURS TREK) The walk starts fairly easily crossing the stony flood plain of the Rongbuk Glacier. Then the path continues on, winding easily along between the side of the valley and the glacier. You can enjoy the views of the Himalaya, as well as the frozen waves of blue ice on the Rongbuk Glacier.  Generally speaking, the hike should take about 5hours, depending on the effect of altitude on the body. Accommodation : CAMPING TENT Meals : Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner DAY 15: TREK TO INTERIM CAMP (19,028 FT., ABOUT 5d6 HOURS TREK) After a warm breakfast, you break camp and continue hiking. In a few hours you pass the Japanese Camp and leave the main valley, climbing steeply into the east side of Rongbuk valley. The steep climb brings us onto a path along a rocky moraine, which slowly ascends up along the side of the valley. The trail undulates following the East Rongbuk Glacier. You stop for a packed lunch along the way. As you gain height, the pinnacles of ice start to appear ahead. Finally, you spot the tents at Interim Camp 1, although it seems to take forever to reach the small encampment. You will take the walk very( slowly today due to the altitude.  Be prepared, as the weather can get cold and windy in the late afternoon. Accommodation : CAMPING TENT Meals : Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner DAY 16: TREK TO ADVANCED BASE CAMP (20,800 FT., ABOUT 6 HOURS TREK) Today is very tough day due to the altitude. The trail starts along the edge of the East Rongbuk Glacier, and then crosses onto the glacier for a while before heading back onto the vast moraines. The river of ice pinnacles gets even more spectacular than yesterday, towering above us and appearing to march down the valley like an army of ice soldiers. Finally, you turn the corner. Ahead you can spot the first tents of Advanced Base Camp (ABC). However, at this altitude, reaching camp will seem to take forever.  Despite the difficulty, take time to enjoy the view of Everest ahead of you.  Here the immense North Face of Everest towers above you, and stays with you all the time (weather permitting) at ABC. On reaching camp, you have lunch and the rest of the day is spent resting and adjusting to the extreme altitude. Accommodation : CAMPING TENT Meals : Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner DAY 17: FREE DAY AT ADVANCED BASE CAMP OR OPTIONAL DESCENT TO INTERIM CAMP Today is a spare day in case of bad weather or a need for more time to acclimatize. Each person will acclimatize at a different speed, and it is important to allow contingency days so that each trekker maximizes his or her chance to achieve the goal of Advanced Base Camp. If all has gone well this day will be used as a rest day at ABC. Note that if you think returning the next day all the way back to Base Camp is too long, you can walk bit down to the Interim Camp after lunch Accommodation : CAMPING TENT Meals : Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner DAY 18: RETURN TO EVEREST BASE CAMP (16,400 FT., APPROXIMATELY 9d10 HOURS) After breakfast, you will retrace your steps down to Base Camp. As you descend, breathing will become much easier. Camp will once again be at Base Camp.  Accommodation : CAMPING TENT Meals : Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner DAY 19: FREE MORNING. PM RETURN TO OLD TINGRI The morning is free to take one last look at the area.  Then you will drive back to Old Tingri and the Snow Leopard Guest House.  Accommodation : SNOW LEOPARD GUEST HOUSE Meals : Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner DAY 20: CROSS INTO NEPAL AND DRIVE TO BHAKTAPUR Today you will take the plunge, dropping 15,000m to the lowest point in the Sun Kosi valley. After completing all Chinese customs procedures, depending on the state of the road, you will either walk or drive to the Nepal border, cross customs, and continue onto Bhaktapur. Here you can spend the night in unusual comfort.  Accommodation : BHAKTAPUR HERITAGE HOTEL Meals : Breakfast, Lunch DAY 21: AM FREE. PM VISIT TO CHANGU NARAYAN AND BHAKTAPUR The morning is free to relax.  In the afternoon, you will take an excursion to visit Changu Narayan, with its exquisite Hindu temple to Vishnu. In front of the temple is a large stone with some writing. This is the earliest piece of written history in the Kathmandu valley, penned by King Manadeva to his mother. While entreating his mother not to immolate herself after the death of her husband, Manadeva describes the history and deeds of the Licchavi kings. Beside the main temple are some small chaityas or stones with some extraordinary carvings – one of the cosmic Vishnu and one of Narsingh, an incarnation of Vishnu. Slightly down the other side of the hill is a lovely view of the valley and a small school that has received much help from Myths and Mountains over the years. From Changu Narayan, it is a short drive to Bhaktapur, the City of Devotees, and a visit to its Dhurbar Square, museum, and unique temples.  Accommodation : BHAKTAPUR HERITAGE HOTEL Meals : Breakfast, Lunch DAY 22: TRANSFER OUT The morning is free for any last minute shopping before transferring to the airport and your flight out. Accommodation : NONE Meals : Breakfast